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It's Spanish, Jim, but not as we know it

The world is awash in Spanish wine. This is not necessarily a bad thing. Spain has offered superb value for the money pretty much from the beginning of its modern-day growth spurt. But one shouldn’t be blamed for wondering if Spain produces anything red other than Tempranillo, Garnacha and Monastrell.

As one of the most ancient wine-growing places on earth, Spain surely does produce much, much more. It’s just that the “big three” are certainly the most prolific (and marketable). Hence, the dominance of only three grapes on retail shelves.

If you’re into trying something new (and ancient), I would direct your gaze to the Cermeño Tinta de Toro. The grape has a lot to offer. It’s certainly got punch with loads to bright red fruit, almost like a Brouilly. But it has plenty of body to boot, unlike its Beaujolais comparison. In fact, the big tannins (which are sweet, not bitter, but definitely pronounced) can make the fruit just a bit hard to find at first. My advice is to either cellar the wine for a few years (like 7 or so), or more likely, decant and let it breathe for something like 3 hours. Really.

This is not a break-the-bank wine, and since we’re getting into hearty-fare season, it’s a great match with stews, game and rich beef or lamb dishes (preferably super-herbed and served with a rich demi-glace).

- Rick

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